Endless Summer 3

So So Sorry......

2006-06-20T08:13:00.000+01:00

Christ this takes me back........

Anyway, I don't think anyone really looks at this (it has been 2 months since anything happened on these pages, almost up to Kevins regularity :-)) so this is probably more for D and I's benefit.

Since arriving back we've immersed ourselves into the wonderful world of commuting, bills, rent agreements, over-priced consumables, babies (not ours!!!!), shopping in town of a Saturday afternoon, buying things we don't really want/need, not seeing our friends enough etc etc, you know everything we promised we wouldn't do upon arrival home. As a result our own little baby (this website) has been somewhat ignored.

We had wonderful plans of sitting out on the lawns drinking wine and reminising over our travels, at the same time producing lots of little top 10's (see the blatant plagerism Pete!!!!!) of our travels, both poingnant and witty ones. Unfortunatly this normally goes two ways. We either get too drunk and wake up in the morning not remembering a thing we discussed, or wake up not speaking to each other as a nice drunken couple arguement inevitably broke out.

But on Saturday night, we managed to be a little more constructive and had the foresight to use pen and paper to jot down our thoughts, unfortunately this didn't stop the inevitable 'disagreement'. My fault entirely, I got sidetracked by some woeful 'top 100 best boyband hits' or something else god awful on the TV. So theres a form of apology in their somewhere D. Must try harder........

We promise this will one day be finished if not for our benefit then for some stranger who accidently come to these pages..........

Oh yeah! we watched the Killing Fields last night..... we weren't really there were we???????

WILSON!!!!!

2006-04-19T11:37:00.000+01:00

So there goes my chance of Hollywood stardom up in smoke.

Being independent, adventurous types we couldn't in anyway bring ourselves to go on an organised tour of some Thai islands, so instead we made a longtail boat drivers day and hired his services for an extortionate fee. His smile was soon wiped off his face when we announced we wanted to start at 5.30am. 'Yes' Mr driver you'll be earning your fee today.

At about 6.30am we managed to shake sleep from our eyes and actually enjoy an empty "THE BEACH" beach. Unfortunately from there our masterplan went somewhat wayward. In typical JONNAH fashion the only big swell we've seen for the last 7 months came in, making any more seaward journey today a little hazardous and probably not too enjoyable with our notoriously weak stomachs. So looking smug the driver happily drove us home, his days fee amounting to about 2 hours work!!! OK for some I suppose.

With great reluctance and heads held in shame we joined the organised tour the next day.

Living on an island a little out of the way meant 6 of us had to wait around for a bit in a small boat for the big tour ship to arrive. After about 10 minutes my 'cast-iron' stomach started to rust a little. Being about 100m off shore the obvious solution for me was to swim in and enjoy nice and stable terra firma. 10 minutes and still no tour boat. 'I'll go for a little walk I thought'. Not too far of course. With my back turned for no more than 1 minute I turned around to find..............nothing............a blank ocean. My transport had upped and gone.

Alone on a desert island...........

FANTASTIC..................

No sooner had I stripped bare, whittled up a makeshift shelter, caught tea, made fire, looked for Amanda Donahoe and bullied a fat kid in glasses then Dianne suddenly remembered I wasn't on the boat and wrestled with her conscience before eventually heading back to rescue me. Turns out that one of the fellow passengers was suffering as much as me but didn't think of getting off the boat, instead preferring to sit there until her stomach finally gave up and, to the delight of the fellow passengers, breakfast reappeared.

My dreams of having Tom Hanks portraying me in a future Blockbuster dashed before they had even began!!!!!

The next two hours sat on a tour boat with 100 excitable Japanese can only be described as pure hell!!!! Less said the better.
Our final 10 days merging in nice food, wine, tearful reminiscing, sunburn (for old times sake), swimming, blue skies, etc......

Then before you know it we're sat on a plane to Bangkok, 2 nights of buying cheap and nasty (and boy do we mean cheap) presents for friends and a final taxi ride to an airport.

7.5 months over...................... Reality starting all over again......

2006-03-26T14:49:00.000+01:00

Right on cue

2006-03-26T14:42:00.000+01:00

Go on then , one last sunset...

2006-03-26T14:38:00.000+01:00

Smiley moon face

2006-03-26T14:35:00.000+01:00

" I hate that monkey"

2006-03-26T14:26:00.000+01:00

This really is the last

2006-03-26T14:24:00.000+01:00

Paddles up

2006-03-26T14:20:00.000+01:00

Captain Bob

2006-03-26T14:15:00.000+01:00

Peaceful early morning at "The Beach"

2006-03-26T14:14:00.000+01:00

The reality later on

2006-03-26T14:09:00.000+01:00

...

2006-03-26T14:06:00.000+01:00

Stress

2006-03-26T14:04:00.000+01:00

Daily diary

2006-03-26T14:03:00.000+01:00

Lunchtime parcels

2006-03-26T14:01:00.000+01:00

The trip in a nutshell

2006-03-26T14:00:00.000+01:00

Next stop Heathrow!!!

This ones for you Pete....

2006-03-20T21:48:00.000Z

Shocking news - at least one of you is still looking!!!!!

Well apologies but sitting at the slowest dial-up computer in the world and looking out of the window at a hedge just isn't as inspiring as recent internet cafes.

So to get back in the right frame of mind heres the pictures as promised.

Later I may even drag myself away from Trisha, This morning, Deal or No deal (its what us dole scum do all day) and write our final 2 posts.

2006-03-20T21:46:00.000Z

Friendly faces

2006-03-20T21:45:00.000Z

Even monks go on holiday

2006-03-20T21:33:00.000Z

Big Lips (no offence Dunc)

2006-03-20T21:32:00.000Z

Walk on by

2006-03-20T21:27:00.000Z

Bayon

2006-03-20T21:26:00.001Z

Locals

2006-03-20T21:26:00.000Z

"Vogue it girl!!!"

2006-03-20T21:25:00.000Z

AAAHHH

2006-03-20T21:24:00.000Z

Intricacies

2006-03-20T21:23:00.001Z

Almost worth getting up at 5.30 for??

2006-03-20T21:23:00.000Z

EUGHHHH!!!!!

2006-03-20T21:22:00.000Z

Dianne does an Angelina Jolie

2006-03-20T21:21:00.000Z

Angkor Wat

Hey Lady you wanna buy bracelet???

2006-03-05T07:35:00.000Z

Escaping from Phnom Penh we were hoping for a little bit of the quiet life. First impressions indicated the opposite. As the bus pulled in the onrushing hoard of tuk-tuk drivers and taxis was actually beaten back by a kindly police officer with a big stick. hhhmmmmm. Later everything became clear as chances are the guy who takes you to your hotel (for a "cheap cheap" price) ends up being your driver for the next 3 days earning hismself a relative fortune.

Siem Reip is home to Angkor Watt, the biggest religious site on earth. Yes the temples are impressive, Yes they are huge and Yes we are sad and saw where Tomb Raider was filmed. But being philistines after 3 days one impressive big pile of rocks merged into the next. Again no words can do justice so have some pictures instead.....

Despite the grandeur of the temples the one residing memory will be the ever present row of 10 ladies, outside of each temple entrance, stood besides bright orange ice boxes singing in unison, (before the tuk-tuk had even stopped) "Hey Lady, you wanna buy cold drink" a no was always replied with "Maybe later you come back and buy from me?". Happy Days.

The kiddie bracelet and book sellers have another unique sales pitch. "Hey Mr where you from?"

"England"

"AAHH Capital city London, population 62 million, Primeminister Tony Blair. You wanna buy bracelet???"

After a few days of this we found the best thing was to simply reply "Iceland" - soon shut them up. Smartarses!!!

More apparrent in Siem Reip, obviously as a direct result of the temples, is the influx of Western money. The huge, flashy hotels have things like pools, grounds and elaborate foyers. There are even public parks (something we've missed- a great place for a afternoon nap) , new almost western looking hospitals and even tarmac on the roads.

OOOPPP's we've forgotten the CD with the pics on. But we arrive home in less than 24 hours so we'll bore you then......

PS- Ribs I finally got one of the challenges done- you owe me a beer my friend!!!!!

Heartbreaker

2006-03-04T06:26:00.000Z

Bus journeys in Cambodia are an experience. Most buses are 'karaoke buses' meaning that a big TV at the front blasts out Cambodian pop songs and the adventurous can sing along if the urge hits. Cambodian pop videos basically go along the lines of a lonely felorn man walking along a beach/paddy field, dreaming of his lost love only to be reunited 3 minutes later after some horrific warbling Westerners would probably fail to recognise as singing. The particular journey to Phnon Penh was a particuar highlight owing to; the coach host bearing more than a passing resemblance to Micheal Jackson, our first time of being offered deep fried spiders and being subjected to the Crazy frog's version of Axel F several times over (Yes KT, horific visions of the sweaty Halcyon gym came flooding back).

On arrival we were both reminded of a conversation we had with a girl in Milford Sound who described Cambodia as 'the country that broke my heart'. Probably the truest thing we've been told all trip.

The past of this country has been documented so we wont go on about it. We of course visited the harrowing killing fields and Tuol Sleng, the 'Prison' used by the Kymer Rouge. Visions and feelings of visiting Auschwitz came flooding back.

What is a little more difficult to accept and comprehend is the legacy this and more recent wars has left the country. As a Westerner you are constantly approached by landmine victims with horrific injuries ranging from missing limbs and blindness and street children forever selling books. Its gut-renching and the guilt overtakes you as you wander to a restaurant when you know the money you are about to spend could go to such a better place. There are afterall only so many you can give to.

Our views of Phnon Penh??? Despite their past the people are wonderful, warm and friendly; however the city is a dirty, noisy, litter filled hole. The concept of litter bins is lost on the population, every unwanted item is thrown on the floor. The filthy stinky streets are filled with motorbikes made worse by the fact that you can't use the pavements as everyone parks their cars/bikes there. The actual drivers are liabilities, insanely rushing around meaning that everytime you try to walk somewhere you feel like your putting your life on the line.

After a couple of days it was a pleasue to leave, making you feel even more guilty as we can simply turn our backs on the poverty and suffering knowing the memory and guilt will fade over time.

2006-03-04T06:25:00.000Z

Victims snapshots

2006-03-04T06:24:00.000Z

Killing Fields

2006-03-04T06:23:00.002Z

Bin????

2006-03-04T06:23:00.001Z

Prisoners

2006-03-04T06:23:00.000Z

Cells

2006-03-04T06:22:00.001Z

Ring-ding-ding

2006-03-04T06:22:00.000Z

I've eaten thanks

2006-03-04T06:21:00.000Z

"Sh-moa mother fucker"

Beans means Heinz

2006-03-04T05:29:00.000Z

Despite being landlocked by several hundred miles, D's love affair with Dolphins continues.

Having missed our proposed Valentines day dolphin trip from Don Khon (far to hung over to consider going to be honest), our first stop in Cambodia gave me a chance to redeem myself (sorry folks but no proposals still). Supposedly rare freshwater Irwaddy Dolphins are two a penny in the Mekong near the small town of Kratie. Despite the best attempts of some meanspirited taxi drivers and guard at the Dolphin spotting place to rip us off we managed to catch a early morning longtail boat out onto the tranquil waters. Just the three of us, 10-20 Dolphins and a rising sun. Unfortunately the shyness of the dolphins and the menacing brown 'water' of the Mekong prevented us from swimming here, but we've more than used up our luck doing that.

Other than the Dolpins and a fantastic little cafe where we managed to track down English baked beans and cheese on toast (heaven to our overly spiced taste buds) Kratie is a pretty unremarkable town. But at the insistence of the hotel owner we were given the Presidential suite in the best hotel in town with a balcony the size of an average house at home and delightful sunset views over the river. More importantly we had air-con and cable movies meaning that we didn't leave the room until hunger pangs grew unbearable and we had to brave the heat.

2006-03-04T05:28:00.000Z

Hotel guest (Frank)

2006-03-04T05:27:00.001Z

Believe it or not those blobs are actually dolphins

2006-03-04T05:27:00.000Z

Camera shy

2006-03-04T05:26:00.000Z

Dolphin boat

2006-03-04T05:25:00.000Z

Balcony views

Leaving Laos

2006-03-02T15:15:00.000Z

A fitting last few days in beautiful, unspoilt, laid backLaos. Following strong recommendations from the soon to be married Courtney & Pete five glorious nights we're spent in the 4,000 islands, specifically beautiful Sala Phae. A floating hotel ('raftel' as the ever hilarious Lonely planet calls it) pampering to the needs of stressed executives, overworked businessmen and two particularly grubby British travellers.

The journey here of course wasn't without duress. The ferry drops everyone off at Don Det the nasty, noisy, party capital of Southern Laos. Think Magaluf by a river..... Maybe that is a slight exaggeration but simply rows and rows of wooden huts filled with backpackers and "Happy Bars". (Fortunately though the world of friends bars has not made it here yet probably because there is only electricity from 6pm until10pm). Despite agreement with our beloved ferry driver before departure, on arrival to Don Det he decided to move the goalposts and thought an additional $1 was required to make the journey to our smaller island, Don Khon (where locals actually live). Despite angry words, pleas to his good nature and as a last resort out and out begging he wouldn't back down. Consultation with the Lonely Planet map revealed our resort was only about 700 metres away. With the opportunity to save 60p on the horizon and some big guns worth sticking to we decided (well I did and D with a roll of the eyes reluctantly followed) a short walk would show him.

Remember that post a few weeks ago regarding how shit the guide books were. Well I obviously didn't!!!!! That short 700 metres walk turned out to be a 'little inaccurate'. After 50 minutes of walking in the midday sun with our rucksacks on our backs, we were delighted to see our final resting place. Only minor problem being it location on the other side of a 100m wide river!!! Rather disheartenly the bridge was another 10 minutes away!!!! Diannes 'know-all' comments about it "only being 700m" were swiftly answered with "well if you didn't pack so many clothes, like I said, then you'd be alright, wouldn't you???"

Eventually home was reached. For us a budget blowing $28 a night but more than worth it.

Being situated along a small, dusty track on the banks of the Mekong away from the throng of the main resort meant that you shared your time with the locals; busy mums who did their washing in the (filthy) river; the now familiar ever smiling kids waving and shouting 'Sabadee' (hello!!) as they jumped and splashed in the water, keeping themselves entertained with games involving nothing more than a flip flop and some dirt??????; and an assortment of livestock and pets, left to wander around at will ,pigs, chickens (bird flu, what bird flu???), cockerals (natures own alarm clock, who unfortunately rather than doing a single cock-a-doodle-doo once in the morning, feel justified in reminding everyone of their presence every 10 minutes), water buffalo, dogs, cats and even monkeys.

In reminiscence of Fiji our days were filled with not alot bar drinking watermelon shakes, eating sticky rice, the difficult decision each meal time of which of the three resteraunts on the island
to eat at, refreshing dips from our balcony (ignoring all warnings about liver flukes!!!) and the occasional token bike ride around the island. The only excitement being when our raftel sunk but, unlike at home where you'd have to wait to get it repaired in a months time, the ever resourceful locals chopped a few bamboo trees down , shoved them under our room and voila we floated again.

With a heavy heart thats it for Laos. Cambodia beckons.....It has alot to live up to!!!!

2006-03-02T15:02:00.001Z

Supper

2006-03-02T15:02:00.000Z

Evening

2006-03-02T15:01:00.000Z

Lady (boy) of the lamp

2006-03-02T15:00:00.000Z

Indian Yoga- piece of piss

2006-03-02T14:59:00.000Z

#5 alive P & C

2006-03-02T14:58:00.001Z

One of my many fans

2006-03-02T14:58:00.000Z

Allright don't have a Paddy

2006-03-02T14:57:00.000Z

Excuse me!!!

2006-03-02T14:56:00.000Z

Watermelon shake

2006-03-02T14:55:00.000Z

Priorities right!!!! food-yes; water-yes; sky TV-YES

2006-03-02T14:54:00.000Z

Bite me now ya bastards!!!

2006-03-02T14:53:00.000Z

Home # 4

2006-03-02T07:34:00.001Z

Local filling station

2006-03-02T07:34:00.000Z

Street scene

2006-03-02T07:32:00.000Z

Local horticulture (I tried to emulate your pose Pete)

2006-03-02T07:31:00.001Z

Its all gone a bit Pete Tong

2006-03-02T07:31:00.000Z

12 months later our beloved 8 of clubs goes the same way as the backgammon die

2006-03-02T07:30:00.000Z

No getting clucky now!!!!

2006-03-02T07:29:00.000Z

Smiley happy children

Minor Grumble

2006-02-24T08:37:00.000Z

Laos must be one of the most beautiful contries on earth (big presumption I know, not even having visited 10% of the countries on earth, but you've got to start somewhere). Not just the scenery but the locals and especially the children. Now those that know D and I know we're not exactly the most child friendly people on earth, but these little fellas (and lasses) melt even our hard stone hearts.

We have had one small complaint regarding Laos. We're missing the freedom and spirt of solo adventure so easy to discover in places like New Zealand, facilitated I know, by our own transport, but here its not possible to wander off for a 10K hike or go 'exploring for the day'. The options are either expensive tours (being herded around like a big group of Chinese tourists) or braving a motorbike on your own. Both parents would probably never talk to us again if we went for the latter option (especially if they ever saw the dusty/bumpy craters they call roads).

But from Pakse we managed to get off the beaten track. Exploring the Bolaven Plateau. Home to some of the greatest coffee in the world. Wasted on our unsophisticated pallets.

Sat in the back of a nice bouncy 4x4 being caked in inches of the now ubiquitous red dust we managed to see yet more waterfalls; smell freshly roasting coffee beans and add vocal support to the picking of tea ("We are British you know").

Mixed opinions were formed when we visited a small village. Personally we felt it was like some ghoulish freak show with us wandering around looking at the exhibits but on the other hand I can see that the kids were genuinely pleased to see us (the opportunities for free sweets and presents) greeting us with familiar huge smiles and calls for "Pen, Pen Pen" much sort after items in this neck of the woods. We can however see the benefit of our presence, our money goes straight to the school giving them the chance of an education and to basic essential medical supplies. The guides also dispense tellings off to the children when found running around with cigarrette lighters and smoking freshly picked tobacco from 3ft bongs (I kid you not).

Despite the back to basics nature of the village it was great to see that they had their priorities right, they may not have running water or clothing but every house had a whapping great satellite dish and TV. Supposedly everything comes to a standstill when the american wrestling is on??????

2006-02-24T05:56:00.000Z

Caffeine fix

2006-02-24T05:54:00.001Z

Big Bean coffee

2006-02-24T05:54:00.000Z

"We just pick the top two leaves, it's what makes our tea so special"

2006-02-24T05:52:00.000Z

Lunchboxes

2006-02-24T05:51:00.001Z

Tat Fan

2006-02-24T05:51:00.000Z

For you James

2006-02-24T05:49:00.000Z

"hee hee you look like a twat!!!"

2006-02-24T05:48:00.000Z

Moody

2006-02-24T05:47:00.002Z

Girl with Bong

2006-02-24T05:47:00.001Z

Boooooo

2006-02-24T05:47:00.000Z

Pen???

2006-02-24T05:46:00.000Z

Naughty boys and naughty toys

Its oohh so quiet.... SSHH....SSSHHH

2006-02-24T05:34:00.000Z

Welcome to Vientienne. Capital city of possible the most laid-back country on earth. Truely living up to its reputation; banks were closed when we needed them most (almost forcing us to stay another day as this is the only place in Laos with 'proper' banks where you can actually use bank cards to withdraw money), buses never left when we expected them to and Mondays here (our day of arrival) are on a par with bank holidays at home with regards to things being open. At 10.30 (like we were ever up that late!!!!!) a semi-curfew is imposed and according to our beloved guide (and you know how much we love that) you may even be lucky enough to have a friendly military policeman escourt you home.

Sightwise its pretty limited. Days were spent; visiting the Buddha park, climbing something that resembles the Arc De Triomph (built by leftover concrete from a runway), more temples (this one being slightly different, very 'Spikey & Gold and guest staring on the front cover of the lonely planet), avoiding falling down the countless deep open drains that seem to litter every pavement (if you can call them pavements!!! most of them look like rubble casually thrown 0n the side of the road), feeling nauseous as yet another local deposits a nice big fat greeny on the street, saying 'NO' to over-ambitious Tuk-Tuk drivers constantly touting for a fare (the concept of going for a walk is lost on these guys), piling on the pounds as we found another cafe from the same chain as the one in Luang Prabang, chasing rogue mosquitoes around the bedroom whom somehow found a way through the windows and getting depressed/excited about how quickly our return looms.

2006-02-24T05:33:00.001Z

So so happy....

2006-02-24T05:33:00.000Z

Could be Waterloo Bridge 7am?

2006-02-24T05:32:00.001Z

Taxi for Leonard!!!!!

2006-02-24T05:32:00.000Z

Gold spikey temple

2006-02-24T05:31:00.000Z

Paris???

2006-02-24T05:29:00.000Z

Buddha park

The problem with guide books

2006-02-19T00:57:00.000Z

We started this whole trip with innocence, naivity and trusting every word the guidebooks tell us. Over time our cynicism and bitterness (through countless bad experiences) has grown.

We've learnt not to trust them (the bastards). On numerous occassions we have found that
once guesthouses and hostels get a mention in said guide, they rest on their laurels and don't bother with simple things such as cleaning, smiling and washing sheets knowing there will be a steady stream of guidebook obssessed people walking through the door the next time a bus pulls in.

We've found that anywhere not listed in the book, is normally quieter, cheaper, cleaner and far more to our 'elderly' tastes.

We've learnt to filter through the words used by the guides. Authentic and character are certainly ones to avoid. This usually means made of wood and dirty. Friendly = Noisy and full of pricks. Instead we've learnt to go for sterile = clean, and uninspiring = white walls, tiled floors. Lacking atmosphere seems to mean that you may actally get some sleep and not be kept up all night by drinking and bikini contests.

All our suspicions were confirmed after a long chat somewhere with the guy whom has been tasked with updating the current Laos guide. He has all of one month to do it. YES thats one month for a country the size of Britain, woefully inadequate. Suddenly everything comes clear.

Why the moan? I'll tell you. According to Lonely Planet there are a couple of small caves to 'visit' near Vang Vieng. Thats sounds cool we thought. We had thoughts of Chedder Gorge. Nice illuminated caverns, wide footpaths, walkways, maybe even a cafe?

How wrong we were. We were joined at the entrance by two young guides (by young I mean under 10 years of age). Being organised we had a small pen torch with us and our guides carried equally poor lights, a cigarrette lighter would have been better. The leisurely stroll started well enough. Before we knew it we were on all fours squeezing through mud filled holes that our ample western frames barely fitted through. As if this wasn't bad enough. We both had our beloved flip flops on. Not the most suitable attire in the world as once wet they have as much traction as a piece of ice on glass. After 25 minutes with visions of Micheal Burke doing a 999 special on us and our parents being interviewed saying what 'lovely children we were' we started to think "where the hell are we going?"and "what the hell are we doing" we posed these questions to our guides who simply smiled and nodded before speeding off into the darkness.

After 40 minutes we reached our goal. A knee deep muddy puddle. "You wish to go swimming?" we were politely asked. Both covered head to toe in mud, bleeding feet, bumps on head, sweat pouring off our brows and not really in the swimming mood we declined their kind offer.

So cheers Lonely Planet, that "spend a few minutes exploring the cave" was an innaccuracy that finally broke the camels back. It would have been better to recommend the trip as a pleasant day out for professional cavers as opposed to two idiots in sandles and one small torch.

Our feelings on Vang Vieng?? Love/Hate is probably the best expression. On the plus side some of the most beautiful scenery surrounds the town. The only way to enjoy it being floating down the river on a large inner tube whilst being supplied with fresh, cold bottles of Beer Lao.

The other side to Vang Vieng is its 6 or 7 friends bars. Big bars where instead of chairs you have beds and a huge screen blares out episodes of Friends all day. Not really why you go travelling half way round the world. But money talks...

2006-02-18T13:59:00.000Z

Caving fun

2006-02-18T13:58:00.000Z

Chilled

2006-02-18T13:57:00.000Z

Juggling the kip/dollar/baht

2006-02-18T13:56:00.000Z

Midnight traffic

2006-02-18T13:54:00.000Z

I'll be there for you

2006-02-18T13:53:00.000Z

Messing about on the river

2006-02-18T13:52:00.000Z

Get ooof my land

2006-02-18T13:51:00.000Z

Classy

2006-02-18T13:49:00.000Z

Grumpiest kids in Laos

2006-02-18T13:48:00.000Z

Beer Lao Beer Lao

2006-02-18T13:36:00.000Z

Bats

J'adore Luang Prabang

2006-02-17T13:45:00.000Z

After 13 mind (and butt) numbing hours our weary bodies required a little pampering. Cue Luang Prabang. Just what the doctor ordered. A little enclave of class and sophistication nestled next to the tranquil Mekong.

It's once French parentage showed through; Colonial architecture, Rues not streets, A La carte cuisine (tres chic) and more importantly to a girl (woman,,,, accept it girl your 30 in about 3 weeks!!!!) suffering from horrific withdrawal symptons possibly the best chocolate croissants this side of the equator (yes KT even better than THE chocolate tart in Paris).

We can't add much, but this place deserved a mention for the 3 days that passed far too quickly and for the first time in a while we left feeling heavy hearted. So fond were we that D even persuaded me to get up at 6.00am to go see some Monks be given their daily alms (donations from the public of food and money- the religious little chaps aren't allowewd to eat after 12 or buy food etc.... there goes one career option for me then - my mood never being too savoury when hunger pangs strike). My only idea for this was everyone gave them rice and bread. How dull I was half tempted to become the most blessed man in Luang by buying a whole host of savoury snacks, sweets and fizzy pop, surely they'd appreciate that more????

Joyfully they even had tarmac heading out of here so no more boats- for a short while anyway......

PS - P & C we made it to Cafe Pakone - Tres bien